On the front calipers, remove the fitting that holds the brake hose to the caliper. You also want to tighten the fittings so the hoses don’t bind as the suspension travels up and down.īy the time I got to the front brakes, I had made such a mess I didn’t bother clamping the hoses. When you tighten the rear fittings at the calipers, you have to hold the fitting in place so it sits down on the caliper. Again, spray brake cleaner on the fittings to keep the threads clean and free of debris. Use a line wrench on the brake line fitting and a regular wrench on the brake hose. The aftermarket lines also use these clips so don’t lose them. The flexible line is held in place with a spring clip behind the bracket. Moving on to the left rear caliper, clamp the brake hose and remove the line nut behind the mounting bracket. The opening photo shows the proper stack. The copper washers go on both sides of the banjo fitting. Tighten the nut and brake line fittings to the junction block and connect the hose to the caliper. The aftermarket junction block only requires one mounting nut. Remove them and the assembly comes right off.Īny number of vendors sell stainless-steel brake hoses for Miatas. The factory junction block is held on with two 10 mm nuts. Use a line wrench to loosen the hard line on top of the junction block, which leads to the left rear caliper. When bleeding the system on a Miata, always start with the left rear caliper because it’s farthest from the master cylinder. You’re going to have to bleed the whole system with fresh fluid when you’re done, so it doesn’t matter which caliper you begin with. It’s important to use line wrenches, not box wrenches, so you don’t round-off the brake line fittings, which can be stubborn. On a Miata, the right rear hose includes a junction block that connects to the hard line that leads to the left rear caliper. Have lots of newspaper under each caliper to absorb the old brake fluid. You’re going to make a big mess of your garage floor, but clamping off the brake hoses keeps some fluid from dribbling all over the place when you remove the bolt/fitting that holds the brake hose on the caliper. With proper hand tools - good line wrenches are a must - the installation shouldn’t take more than two hours and a nominal amount of profanity. Dirt in the fittings can make them feel tight before they’re actually tight, and that can lead to leaks when under pressure. Have lots of brake cleaner spray handy, and be sure the fittings are clean upon reassembly. The installation isn’t hard, but it is messy. These brake hoses should be one of the first things you replace if you plan to put a Miata on track, whether it’s for racing or for HPDE. In Spec Miata, you’re not allowed to brace the brake booster and master cylinder, but you are allowed to replace the brake hoses with stainless-steel braided hoses, which transmit more fluid pressure to the caliper piston, adding stopping power and giving the driver better pedal feel. In addition, the flexible rubber brake hoses that extend from the chassis to the calipers also expand with increased pedal pressure, taking the clamping energy away from the caliper piston. If you’re using regular old brake fluid, it can boil and introduce air into the system. For example, under hard braking the firewall flexes and the entire brake booster and master cylinder push forward in the engine compartment. What’s not so obvious are other things that happen. Foremost, the system takes the energy of momentum and transduces it into heat, and it slows the car. Several things happen when you stand on the brakes hard.
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